I had wanted to go to New Orleans for many years. It wasn’t to get drunk on Bourbon Street or to collect Mardi Gras beads. I wanted to go to New Orleans hear the music.
I got to visit New Orleans twice in 2012, but it was on my first visit where I listened to the music of New Orleans. On street corners. In bars. As I walked beside the river. It wasn’t just jazz or any particular music I was looking to hear. Soon everything began to sound like music. The people as they laughed and talked on sidewalks and in cafes. The rain as it came down and drenched the pavement. The crickets chirping as I walked under streetlights in the evening. The washers as they spun clothes in laundromats. There was music everywhere.
Sometimes there are moments, rare moments that are perfection. One of those moments for me was in New Orleans. I was standing in The French Quarter with a gelato in hand. The afternoon sun was setting. The humidity was rising giving the atmosphere weight. The sounds of a guitar and violin were floating across the breeze. Then I saw bubbles rising in the sky. It felt like something you would see in the movie, but I wasn’t on set. This was real, and at that moment I knew I was where I needed to be.
I grew up playing the piano, singing, and music used to be an active part of my life each day. Now music isn’t as prominent in my life as it was before. I listen to music, but I’m not practising the piano for hours every day. I’m not memorising harmonies to sing in a choir. Hearing music all over in New Orleans made me realise how much I missed music. Visiting New Orleans made me miss the connection I once had to music. New Orleans made me miss myself.
I loved New Orleans, but I can’t give you recommendations for where to hear good music. I wasn’t a good writer on that trip. I didn’t mark down any clubs, or bars, or particular streets where I heard good music. I just followed my ear when I heard a melody floating in the air. My feet got quite sore wandering everywhere, trying to follow the music I heard. Sometimes I would end up in a bar or a club. Often I’d be listening to someone play on a street corner, or in a park, or in a square. No matter what the music was always good.
I can write more about the music of New Orleans, but the only way you’ll know what it’s like is if you go there yourself. For anyone who loves music (among many other things) a visit to New Orleans is well worth it. If you can’t go to New Orleans, you can listen to the great local music of New Orleans on WWOZ 90.7. The station has a calendar of music events that occur through the city. Plus they live stream their broadcasts online. A year and a half after my trip to New Orleans I’m still listening to this radio station. Last year I found this great 15 minute documentary Street Saints from Tavner Murphy. It’s all about the unique music of New Orleans.
I did Couchsurfing for this trip to New Orleans. If you are looking for a hotel in New Orleans consider booking one here.
If you’re looking for live music venues in New Orleans there are lots to choose from. The Spotted Cat, d.b.a, and Maple Leaf Bar are a few that have been recommended to me. There are also music buskers performing outside, especially around popular areas like Canal Street, Jackson Square, and by Cafe Du Monde on Decatur Street.
You can also listen to live music from New Orleans on WWOZ 90.7. They feature a calendar of live music and other events on their website.
Have you heard the music of New Orleans?